…and let me be telling you – what a time I have had. Very few ups, lots of downs but as they say – what doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger. If that were true, I should be Superman by now – combined with Hulk and Wolverine to boot.
My misadventure started a couple of months ago when I was approached by the monolith to go to Saudi Arabia for a 6 week assignment. Two 3 week rotations, to be exact. Why, you may ask? Well, it was due to a series of unbelievably bad business decisions, etc – anyhoo – it meant that I needed to be on a jetplane.
So, after a myriad of issues and admin difficulties, I was finally on my way. I hope you are catching the trend – fuckups seem to be the order of the day in this hole of an organization. Can you tell I don’t really like my job/organization/management? Just in case you are not aware – I bloody hate it all! I can hear some of you muttering: ‘so just leave, quit!’. If only it were that simple – well, it never is.
I arrive in Dubai and transfer to my Jeddah flight – no problems. Very efficient and all – top tip: Emirates – great airline. Next stop – the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and it is here that all goes kind of pear shaped.
The plane is filled with an assortment of people going to Jeddah (…obviously) – most of them for religious pilgrimage. All dressed in white – and me. We land and immediately, all the efficiency of Dubai is replaced with utter confusion. People jostling, pushing, shoving to get off the plane.
And all of this in 38°C heat. We get onto the bus and make it to the airport terminal, in the process, almost being run off the tarmac by a Mercedes Benz Maybach racing across a runway – yes, the effing runway - carrying, as I would later find out, a member of the Saudi Royal Family. As it quickly becomes apparent, they are not just the Royal Family. They actually OWN the entire country – absolute monarchy. Hello, 7th century!
Into the terminal building – everyone racing about – no one really sure where to go. I follow some western-looking folks and land up in a queue for passport control. And it takes FOREVER! An hour later, I arrive at the counter. The passport official looks me up and down, barks something in Arabic and I hand over my passport and visitor form. Interestingly, on the form it states: DEATH PENALTY FOR DRUGS. SEVERE PUNISHMENT FOR ALCOHOL. OK… I get the message! Next, he gets on the phone and chats to someone for about 5 minutes. Seems like a casual chat with a friend as there is a lot of giggling going on. He puts down the phone and barks something. I say – I DO NOT SPEAK ARABIC! WHAT (THE FUCK) DO YOU WANT? At which point he gestures to this fingerprint machine thing.
Message received and do as ordered. Already, my heart is sinking. I realize that I may be in for a bumpy ride. For someone like me – over sensitive – this is not the place to be.
Eventually, he stamps my passport and I’m officially in Jeddah. It is now 90 minutes since we landed. I get to the baggage carousel and there is nothing. All the other people from the flights are also standing around. I ask someone from the airline what is happening. The bags should have been here already! He just gives me a blank stare.
Then the carousel starts. One bag comes out. 10 minutes later another bag comes out. A full two hours later, I am the only person left waiting. Nothing. Nada. Fokkol. I ask what is happening. Blank stares. I go to the policeman standing to one side and explain. He smiles and tells me that he will have a look. An hour later, my bag is located. That makes it 5 fucking hours since I landed. I get out and wow – my hotel cab is still waiting for me. Apparently, this happens all the time. Welcome to Saudi Arabia!
I get my first real sight of Jeddah and… well, it looks… bad. Ok, it is a desert after all. WTF did I expect? Verdant fields? As we enter the city, I notice that it is chaos galore. The traffic situation – I thought Angola was bad. No rules. No one indicates, checks blind spots or anything like that. Utter madness. I feel like anyone could crash into us at any time. Seriously, feared for my life.
Get to the hotel and it looks like a bad neighborhood. I was soon to find out that the entire city is a bad neighborhood. The place… is filthy. OK, that was incredibly ‘ignorant’ of me. I just had to say it. I guess Europeans visiting Cape Town, on the drive from the airport are horrified – it’s just a change in perspective I suppose. But Saudi Arabia is different.
The entire country is geared to one thing, really. Islam. An ultra-conservative version of Sunni Islam, called Wahhabism (google it), to be exact. On that note, being in the Middle East for an extended period of time, reading Arab news, watching Arab TV channels, one realizes that there are many different ‘versions’ of Islam. Sunni’s, Shi’a’s, Ahmadiyya’s, Sufi’s, etc and all of these containing many sects with different traditions and belief systems. It blew my mind a bit. Living in South Africa, where the Muslim population is almost exclusively Sunni, you are aware of differences between Indian and Malay Muslims but they mostly ascribe to the Sunni school of thought. Indeed, a very interesting thing I never knew existed! You live, you learn.
Now, please don’t get me wrong. I have absolutely nothing against anyone (besides ax-murderers, paedophiles and Nazi’s… and maybe… no, nevermind). Many of my best friends are Muslim. It’s just that I am not. I am a Christian. I am ‘a’ gay. I am not an Arab. In our inimitable ex-SAPS Commissioner and ex-Head of Interpol (cringe) words, I don’t belong here, finish and klaar.
And before I get any hateful comments or some crazy trying to blow me up - I love and cherish religious freedom and accept all for who they are – I would just like the same courtesy extended to me, I’m just saying…
Imagine an ultra-orthodox Christian (or Jewish – except for Israel, ofcourse, ok scrap Jewish… or Buddhist or Bahi’a or Atheist) country where you could only practice the one legal religion (other religions would be banned) and you were made subject to laws straight from antiquity. Oddly enough, that was OBL’s aim – setting up an Islamic caliphate – which basically means, expanding Saudi Arabian ideals and rule all over the Middle East – scary thought.
Even more interesting was the Arab perspective on OBL's demise. The (Muslim) Arab world absolutely IDOLISES this monster. Diplomatically, they despise him and all he stood for but many ordinary Arabs see him as a heroic martyr. Perspective - it's a mind-fuck.
It is a step too far. Culturally. Not religiously, though – most of us believe in essentially the same thing, for Pete’s sake. As I told the Moor (and the others assembled at a recently held soiree) when he asked me about my foray into the Middle East: “xxxx, if you aren’t an Arab or Muslim, you don’t belong in Saudi Arabia”. I respect the culture – it just ‘aint for moi. There, I said it.
But, I digress…
So, we arrive at the hotel – not bad actually. The Marriott, Jeddah. It reminded me of the Cape Sun and the Sandton Sun. Faded glory. But beautiful – all marble and crystal chandeliers. Check in proceeded without incident. Room is nice (almost exactly like the room I usually get at the Sandton Sun when I go to JHB), if overly large – wasted space irritates me. I’m just saying.
So, almost 6 hours after landing, I get to my room and like a good little monolith-consultant, I switch on my laptop and check my email. Perhaps, I think, it’s a good idea to call my project contact and tell him that I arrived. So, it is about 3pm at this point on a Wednesday (which is a Friday in Saudi – as weekends here are Thursdays and Fridays). I call this fool and he says – get to the office immediately! Get a cab and get here immediately. No Shit! Those were his exact words. Never mind I had no fucking idea where the fucking office was.
Ok, Neil – be calm. Grab a quick shower and get to the office. So, I do this. My second time in a Saudi taxi. Horror Of Horrors. Almost no one speaks English – duh! I try to explain for 5 minutes to the Pakistani taxi driver where the fuck I need to be. It is 38°C outside. Am already wet through with sweat – fuck, I just showered! And you have to barter with these fuckers. Another top tip: if you don’t want to be hassled by talk of cricket, do not mention to any Indian or Pakistani that you are South African. Almost immediately, they will launch into a major technical conversation about cricket.
I almost didn’t have the heart to say – um… I don’t do/watch/play/discuss/dream about cricket. Sorry. Feel like talking about Tom Ford’s latest range of eyewear? I thought not.
URGH – 3 things I hate most. Not being understood (and not understanding WTF someone is saying – if I ever go deaf, I’ll shoot myself, I’m just saying), bartering and being stuck in some inane sports conversation. No man. Nightmare situation. Just give me a bloody price and I’ll pay it. I have zero time to barter with someone. Boring. Petty. Greedy
Al-Kandara is my destination. Another shit-hole. I get where I must be and everyone I need to see is in this meeting. I can see it all unfold. I am sitting in this glass command centre, looking down on the people in the meeting and there is a major fight going on – in Arabic. This goes on for about 90 minutes and the Saudi’s (who all wear long white robes, quite fetching, really) storm out.
Then this guy (my contact) comes into the command centre and says: “You! Come here! You are late!” Now, you can well imagine, I am at the end of my fucking tether. I tell him: “YOU – who the fuck are you?” He stops, surprised. And then introduces himself like a decent bloody human being.
Now, let me put some of this into context. The monolith, like other major corporates, uses off-shore capability extensively. Most of our consultants come from massive global delivery sites in India and Pakistan. Now, these Indian and Pakistani consultants (bless them!) are another breed. Hardworking, humble, very talented and they ask no questions. Often they have 2 or more degrees + a MBA. And they are sooooo cheap. An India-Pakistan (or shall it be Pakistan-India? Just trying to be fair) consultant charge out rate is roughly 40% of a South African consultant of similar skill. Not even to mention a European consultant!
I mean, you could ask an Indian or Pakistani consultant to write some code, while standing in his head, spinning two saucers on his toes and make you a cup of coffee. And he will do it. I say 'he' as all of us are ‘he’ here. Women are not allowed in the workplace – severely frowned upon, apparently. But, I am not Indian nor Pakistani (another group of people that, quite frankly, hates one another). Nelson Mandela spent 27 years in prison so that I could have basic human rights – and NO ONE is taking that away from me – NO ONE. So, no – I am not about to let myself be abused.
I need some decency and respect. Else, I turn into a bloody monster. Truly.
After the customary introductions, I realize that I need the loo. I am shown where it is and at the door, I gag and leave immediately. Will not give you the pleasure of the ins and outs of Saudi’s ‘fine’ facilities – just know, it aint that fine.
And this sadly was how it was to be for the next 3 weeks – sheer and utter hell. No respite. And the more I fought it, the more senseless it all became.
FFWD 2 weeks and I get the flu. No – I am infected with the flu. One day at breakfast, a noisy group of Chinese businessmen sits at the table next to me. They proceed with doing things… well, the Chinese way. Slurping, coughing, burping, talking loudly, smoking, etc. [Oh yes – everyone in the Middle East smokes – everywhere. In lifts, at the breakfast table, fucking everywhere - gross]. They are the new ‘Ugly American’ traveler. Urgh, this bloody spell-checker keeps on reverting to English US no matter how many times I change it!
Yes, so the slurpers are having the time of their fucking lives. Coughing all over me – hello, have you never heard of droplet infection! And as you have it, by that evening, I was sick as a dog. I’m just saying.
I think – don’t worry – it will go away in a few days. No, it doesn’t. Eventually, I need medical assistance. The monolith does, to its credit, give good medical support to international assignees. So, I call them and they arrange a doctor’s appointment across town. I get a cab (by now I am like a local – bartering, speaking quasi-Arabic like nobody’s business) and I get there. To their credit, a great medical facility – think… MediClinic Constantiaberg – an oasis, really. I love anything medical – should’ve been a doctor – naa, can’t do numbers. A male nurse maybe – hahaha – can anyone say stereotypical!
The place is filled with friendly Filipino nurses who proceed to take my blood pressure and weigh me, etc. Then I see the doctor and here, it all goes pear-shaped. It’s an Arabic doctor. Who seems oddly pissed off that he needs to speak English to an imperial ass like me. The examination is carried out very brusquely. I suppose it is just the Arab way. No one says please or thank you. No manners. No respect. Everyone just barks orders. It’s a fucked up society. Sorry to say, but it is.
Examination over, get my meds – I tell him his fortune as I leave. He is shocked. No one here speaks up against Saudi males. But screw that and screw him. At this point, I have no fear left. He just gives me a smirk and I gooi ‘n lange. Get my cab and back to the hotel.
You know, everyone has a breaking point. And I had reached mine. I had just had it with being pushed and shoved around. So what! I am not Muslim. I am not an Arab. But, I am still a person – with rights – no matter where I am.
Funnily, as soon as you start pushing back, they retreat. It’s a classic bully situation. The men there are bullies. Used to bullying their wives and bullying their kids. Used to getting it ALL their way. It’s a 7th century society – like I said, fucked up. I get the distinct impression that, in Saudi Arabia, men are shit scared of women. Actually. The power of women. So sad, really.
My hotel room overlooks the pool, which I also used quite regularly. Often, you would see a typical family – dad and kids in the pool having the time of their lives – laughing and other horse-play. And then – off to one side, almost hidden, the mother would be sitting. All in black. Covered from head to toe. Just sitting there. Just good enough to bring towels when shouted over to do so.
Now, I know this is an over-simplification. But it is what I experienced. Her attire may well be her choice but… I don’t know. To western eyes – it just seems so cruel and unfair. Like I said, if you are not Muslim or Arab – you do not belong in Saudi Arabia. Finish and klaar.
And then my 3 weeks were up. There I was, counting the hours, waiting for my cab to take me to the airport. And another thing – for such a wealthy country, you would imagine they would be sorted. I always imagined Saudi Arabia to be like a massive Dubai – how wrong I was. People here are poor. Average Saudi’s are poor. The Al Sauds (the royal family) basically own everything. They literally OWN the entire country. It is theirs. To do with whatever they like. They are all-powerful.
There is even a religious police. The Society for the Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice – I kid you not. It’s a voluntary organization with no shortage of eager, over-zealous enforcers. They are the ones that will harass a woman for not having every inch of her body covered (no ankles, no hair (even a single strand), no hands – basically cover your entire body is covered by a black, shapeless sack), if they see anyone not abiding by Sharia – you are in deep kak. If a single hair is out of your doek, beware. They can arrest and detain you and beat you up if they feel like it. The stories published about their abuses are scary. Crazy. AND, they are undercover, plain-clothes – either women or men.
It cultivates a feeling of mass oppression and fear – quite unbelievable, actually.
Back to my story, so… ja – am heading to the airport. Compared to Dubai (whose airport is a fucking dream!), this is like being at East London airport – no, that’s too good. Kimberly airport – ja, like that.
Chaos! Pilgrims everywhere. Confused pilgrims – and the Saudi authorities really treat Indians, Pakistanis, Indonesians, Filipino’s – basically everyone (except Arabs) like shit. It makes one so angry! So powerless…
Anyway, I am on the plane and outta there. 10 wonderful days in Cape Town and then back to the desert for the last 3 week rotation. And you know, it was three weeks of the same. Dreary, unhappy, sad. What a terrible situation.
The more I travel, the more I realize that I come from a beautiful, peaceful, respectful place. Ok, South Africa, the land of my birth, has a myriad of problems. Crime. Corruption. Xenophobia. Racism (still!). But there is a special quality here – a society striving to make something better. To be happier. To be freer. To be friendlier. AND protected by the most liberal Constitution on earth, the Bill of Rights and the Freedom Charter.
I guess I am just a wuss. But nothing, NOTHING compares to my dear old Cape Town. Just ask TripAdvisor. I mean, it’s official and all. The realization has struck me that I am a rather provincial soul. I must really stop starting sentences with ‘I’. So amateur. So self-absorbed. So ‘I’!
Next, the monolith is dispatching me to Berlin. No, not Berlin, Vermont. Berlin as in: hardcore Deutschland, Berlin. Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall - you feel me? Who knows, I may just fall in love with Berlin? I don’t really go along with ‘ze German vay’ - it stands for everything I am diametrically opposed to. Bluntness. Forcefulness. Absolute Correctness. Absolute Discipline. Absolute Order. Zero nuance. But, we’ll see… I have to start learning some basic German. Ich werde nach Berlin!
Hell, the language freaks me out. You know how it is – the subtleties of a language. Often, I hear foreigners in Cape Town say something that is directly translated (like my pathetic attempt above) and you think – damn, so much is lost in translation. If I am going to speak German, I am going to speak it like a native.
But, look I am not going to be the next Goethe or anything. Just want to know enough to order a Jameson in a bar, really. That’s all… Maybe I can ditch the monolith and teach English there. Sounds like a plan… FAMO! can come out and join me. I’ll be Claus and she can be Heidi. I’ll teach English and FAMO! can teach drama – you know, things we are good at. Hahahahaha!
I just hope it will be ok. As Angela Merkel said, multiculturism in Germany has ‘utterly failed’ - oops. Neil has zero tolerance for racism or any shit like that. None. So, I could just be fighting it out there as well. But, ve’ll see…
Now, I have to get rid of my much-loved apartment (very sad about this) and much loved Mini. Hey, nothing lasts forever, as they say.